What stove output do I need?

The output you require will depend on a number of factors. Room size is important, generally measured in cubic feet or meters, however it is not enough to simply work out the size of room and allocate a particular output of stove. You should consider the age of the house and insulation level, whether windows are double glazed, the proximity of stairs and any basement, what other forms of heat are in the house, how regularly you are likely to use the stove and what you want the stove to achieve for you. Discussion with an experienced member of staff at our showroom is often essential in choosing the correct stove.

What is the stove made from?

Our stoves are made from high quality steel and cast iron.

Are your stoves Multi fuel?

Clearview stoves have multi fuel capacity. The patented combustion system offers two independent air supplies to provide ideal control for both wood or solid fuel of various qualities and moisture contents. However should you want a stove that is a joy to watch, a very clean burning and environmentally sound then wood should be your fuel choice. In terms of performance the stove will perform equally well with both solid fuel and wood. However solid fuel is likely to leave more residue in the firebox and this may affect the glass and your flue. Where storage space is an issue, we would advise all customers to use natural solid fuel such as anthracite and to always use a stove thermometer.
We display stoves that are for wood,multi fuel and stoves that have the option to be adapted

What hearth do I need?

Almost all of the 5kW and 8kW stoves in our range require only a minimum hearth of 12mm thick and are passed for use on such a hearth. To reduce the risk of damage however we would recommend all hearths were 1”/25mm deep. Our larger stoves, the 650 and 750, require a constructional hearth of at least 5”/125mm. Document J in the building regulations should be consulted for a detailed look at the hearth requirements. Our stoves are classed as closed appliances and so require and absolute minimum of 9”/225mm of hearth in front of the stove body and 6”/150mm either side. However the arc of the door will reach beyond this and we would encourage all our customers to build sufficient hearth to cover this. Larger hearths are preferable and ideally should extend beneath the stove door when open. Good hearth materials would be slate or stone.

What is the combustion air requirement for a wood stove?

The pioneer, Solution 400 and inset stoves are all classed as 5Kw stoves, and as such do not have a specific requirement for the provision of external air. According to Building Document J, these stoves can therefore be fitted without the need for there to be a permanent feed of external air into the room where there is a insufficient air through natural infiltration. The amount of air depends on the output of the stove and is worked out as 550 sq mm of external air (550×7= 3850).

Our preferred method of providing external air is to fit the stove with an external air box. This can be fitted to all the stoves in our range with the exception of the inset and provides a three inch diameter direct air feed into the stove. Ducting can be used to prevent any drafts into the room that would be present with an air brick.
It should be noted that the actual requirement is for the stove to have adequate air for combustion. Logically, therefore even a 5kW stove may require external air should there be the risk of reduced air in the room. Extremely high levels of insulation and a close proximity to extraction fans may be an example of such a situation where a 5kw stove would benefit external air.

Can I have a boiler in the stove to heat water and central heating system?

Some of our stoves can be fitted with boilers. Where this is a possible option the following consideration should be taken into account.
Boilers will reduce temperature in the firebox – some extra sooting up of the glass, the firebox and the flue is to be expected.
Boiler stoves may require twice the amount of wood, their reload time will be much more frequent and the quality of the wood more important. Boiler stoves are less forgiving of poor quality fuel. Are you organised to accommodate this?
Boiler systems can quickly become complicated and will need servicing. You should carefully weigh up the cost of buying and fitting a boiler stove against the likely savings. You may find a dry stove will be more effectively heat your house than a boiler stove, and it will be easier and cheaper to run.
Does a boiler suit your lifestyle? Is somebody at home all day to stoke up the fire?

Can I use a wood stove in a smoke control area?

A range of our stoves have been passed for use in smoke control areas. This means that you can burn wood and maintain a sufficiently clean burn to pass legislation. You cannot have a boiler in a smoke control stove

I do not have a chimney, can I still have a wood burning stove?
Yes, the most widely used option is to erect an exposed flue system. These flue systems can be built both internally and externally, but our preference is to build internally. The flue is better insulated against adverse weather conditions and the heat given off by the flue itself can be used to heat any rooms through which it’s fitted. Another advantage is that in most cases the system will involve less bends if is running directly through the house which is cheaper and more efficient. Understandably some people are reluctant to create too much disruption in the house but it is worth remembering that when installing a relatively costly flue onto the stove, you would wish to get as much benefit from the stove as possible and an exposed flue could potentially add considerable heat to the house and reduce your heating bill proportionately.
It is vitally important that there is sufficient draw on the stove and for this the chimney needs to be well positioned. On the whole the termination of the flue needs to be above ridge height, although in the case of single storey extensions or conservatories exceptions can be made. We are able to advise on the installation of this system and have all the parts required in stock and ready collection or shipping immediately. At first glance it may seem a rather expensive option but over time and before long will have paid for the initial costs many times over.

My chimney is sound or has class 1 clay liner, is it necessary for me to reline and insulate?

To get the best performance from your stove and to maintain a clean and efficient flue it is very important to have a narrow, warm and smooth environment for the flue gases. The warmer the flue the quicker hot air will rise through it and the less air will be required to maintain efficient combustion. A liner should be safer and easier to clean.
With wood between 20-25% moisture content, and with an average use of 4-5 tonnes of wood each year, over a tonne of moisture could be sent up your chimney in the form of steam. In an ideal scenario smoke would exit the top of the flue over 100°c, taking with it the moisture in the flue gases. A poor flue will more likely allow the flue gases to drop below 100°c, at which stage water will condense on the inside of the chimney. This mixes with soot causing tar, which can be both corrosive and invasive.
Clay pot liners are not usually ideal as they are often cold, uninsulated and built incorrectly, and as such is likely to increase the chance of condensation in the flue.

I am building a new house, what should I use to build my chimney?

In this situation we would strongly recommend that a pumice system is used,. There are two options: either the liner system, which involves 600mm lengths of flue around which leca insulation is back filled or the double modular system which incorporates both the stack and the liner. Both allow you to match the external chimney with your existing walls whether it be brick, stone or render. Its insulation qualities make it the ideal choice for external chimney systems, although it can be used to reline existing old stacks. It is also very cost effective and is easy to assemble. It can be erected anywhere on the house but for obvious reasons is better suited to a gable end.

Which stove is right for me?

This is a common question. Room size is obviously important, and factors such as the age of the house and level of insulation and your budget are all significant.

Our advice would be as follows;
Contact us,
To help advise you on which stoves would be suitable for your installation the following information will be required;

Room size, i.e. width x length x ceiling height
Number and type of doors and windows
Fireplace size and chimney details
Take internal and external photographs if possible – these can be really useful

With this information we can provide you with an estimation of work required and approximate costs. Normally a survey will then be carried out to confirm the preliminary conclusions and an accurate quotation will be supplied.

Many basic points are covered in F.A.Q. We have been fitting and supplying stoves for years, so there is very little we have not seen, and very few problems we cannot overcome.

What fuel can I use?

Without doubt wood is the best fuel. It’s cleaner burning and kinder to your stove and your chimney liner. We also recommend naturally dried fuel, seasoned outside and under cover. This provides a more even seasoning and will not unduly stress the wood during the drying process.

kiln dried wood, has a lower moisture content and to use it we would suggest mixing this type of fuel with air dried wood, and using a thermometer at all times to monitor the temperature the stove is burning at to avoid overheating.

Top Tips for Good Wood

Logs should ideally be cut to about 18 inches. Logs over 5 inches in diameter are best split, unless very dry.
Wood should be air dried to a moisture content of below 25%. Burning green or wet fuel will mean increased fuel consumption, reduced heat output, excessive tarring of the flue and may lead to more serious chimney problems.
We advise using hard wood, although soft wood can be used. Due to its lower calorific value and problems associated with burning soft wood, you should be careful to make sure the wood is properly stored and seasoned.

Solid Fuel

If insufficient room is available to store wood, you may wish to supplement with solid fuel. We recommend low sulphur fuels as most manufactured solid fuels (briquettes, nuggets etc) contain adhesives to bind them and use waste oil products. These can be corrosive and damaging to your stove and flue liner. The use of these fuels will void your warranty. You will need to use some of the primary air to draw the air through the fuel, and again we would recommend that you mix with wood where possible. Anthracite and Welsh stream coal would be acceptable.

Artificial Logs

Fuels made from compressed wood waste may be used, providing they do not contain oil products, waxes or binders. Manufactured logs have very low moisture content and will burn intensely, so monitor your stove’s temperature carefully. You may wish to mix with conventional logs when your stove has achieved a good operating temperature. If very dry fuel, briquettes or solid fuels is intended to be your primary fuel, please let us know, as it may influence the size of the stove required.

General Guidance

At all times you should try to ensure that your chimney is clean, as warm as possible and that you are burning up to temperature to ensure clean distribution. A thermometer is an invaluable aid to this.
Do’s and Don’t’s
Do leave a thin layer of ash to retain heat, protect the grate and aid clean combustion.
Do not use chemicals or fluids to start the fire, this includes fire-lighters
Do not burn kitchen waste, plastic, flammable fluids such as petrol, naphtha or engine oil.

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